Subject: Grooming the German Shepherd/Malinois/Labrador

Barry Rothschild Associate member: NAPWDA - ILPWDA

847.471.4808 K-9TRAINING1@COMCAST.NET

Subject: Grooming the German Shepherd/Malinois/Labrador 29 April 2012

TO: NAPWDA,

Over the years we all owned various types of dogs, and we groomed our dogs for three primary reasons, maintain a healthy looking coat, extract parasites, and reduce shedding. We have all purchased grooming tools, and each of us has attempted to groom our dogs to the best of our ability. Depending upon the dog we owned we have all discovered that there is no easy way to groom a dog, unless the dog has a very sparse coat similar to that of a Blood Hound, Great Dane, Doberman or German/English Pointer.

I have always defined grooming as making an investment in your dog. What do you mean? Well look at it this way; when you groom your dog you're spending quality time with your dog. How many times has your dog kissed you while you were grooming him? How many times has your dog given you his paw while you're grooming him? My dog communicates with me 24/7 nonstop on the grooming table and off! While grooming I always talk to my dog, I give him hugs and kisses, I tell him how nice he looks, I always tell him that he's a good boy, and that I love him. Does he like that? You bet he likes that! All he does is kiss my nose, and give me his paw.

Additionally, during the grooming process you're examining the fur and skin, and removing anything that may be lodged in the fur or on the skin such as ticks etc.., and you're removing dead loose hair and loose under coat, thereby, making the dog feel more comfortable.

I currently own a German Shepherd, my last dog was a German Giant Schnauzer, and previous to the Schnauzer I owned a Cairn Terrier, Shepherd and a Doberman. I learned a good deal grooming the Cairn, but where I received most of my grooming experience was with the German Giant Schnauzer even though he had a German coat not an American coat. My focus is to share my grooming experience and knowledge with you, in an effort to provide you with techniques that may be helpful, and in the process provide your dog with a good deal of value and benefit from the grooming. Please note that the use of a grooming table will ease the grooming process.

SECTION 1 - THE GERMAN SHEPHERD COAT SECTION 2 - GROOMING PROCESS BY SPECIFIC AREA & EQUIPMENT USED SECTION 3 - SLICKER BRUSH & GERMAN SHEPHERD RAKE: SECTION 4 - COMBS: SECTION 5 - LIGHTLY MIST THE COAT WITH WATER: SECTION 6 - BRUSHING: SECTION 7- NOTES SECTION 8 - BATHING SECTION 9 - BATHING PROCEDURE SECTION 10 - NAILS - TEETH - EYES SECTION 11 - LABRADOR & MALINOIS COATS SECTION 12 - A MESSAGE TO ALL POLICE K-9 OFFICERS

SECTION 1 Since most of us have a German Shepherd, I'm going to specifically focus on the Shepherd coat, and later in this article I will discuss the Labrador & Malinois coats.

SECTION 2 Grooming process by specific area & equipment used:

a. Head - face - ear fur: The amount of loose hair on the head, face and ears is incredible. To remove this hair I use two different grooming tools that I purchased from the JEFFERS EQUINE CATALOGUE. The first item is the Jeffers Large Groomer [item# IA-N6 $5.59] This tool works very well on the head as it removes a good deal of loose hair. The objective is to groom the head gently and slowly. On the face and ears I use JEFFERS BROAD STROKE BRUSH [ITEM # MB-G6 $7.49]. The amount of hair removed from the face, and ears is beyond belief. On the outside of the ears I use both brushes as noted above. b Ear cleaning: I use two different methods. Method [1]: Using 2 cups place a half of cup of warm water in each cup. Using anti bacterial liquid soap, place a drop or two of the soap onto a wet cotton ball, and place into the ear. Swab the entire inside of the ear slowly. Use as many cotton balls as necessary. Dry the ear with a small piece of paper towel. Wet another cotton ball using clean water and rinse the inside of the ear with cotton balls till the ear is free of soap. Dry the ear with a small piece of paper towel. AVOID USING Q-TIPS. METHOD [2]: Clean the ear with a cotton ball and rubbing alcohol. Clean the ear gently as many times as necessary till the ear is clean. Dry the ear with a small piece of paper towel. c. Neck area: Using item # IA-N6 brush the entire neck area till the fur being removed is adequate. d. Front: Using item # IA-N6 brush the entire front & chest area. e. Back: Using item # IA-N6 brush the entire back area adequately. f. Sides: Using item # IA-N6 brush both sides adequately. g. Belly & underside: Using item # MB-G6 gently brush the entire belly & under side. h. Hips - rear & front legs: Using item # IA-N6 brush the entire hip area, and use # MB-G6 on the front & rear legs till the fur being removed is adequate. Note the amount of loose hair removed from hip area and legs. i. Tail: Using item # IA-N6 brush the entire tail adequately. Don't allow the tail hair to tangle.

SECTION 3 SLICKER BRUSH & GERMAN SHEPHERD RAKE: I have seen people use a slicker brush & the German Shepherd rake on their dog in the same fashion that one would use sand paper to remove tough paint or varnish. A. Use your slicker brush and GS rake gently beginning from the top of the neck, down the back, sides, hock and finally the tail. Clean your slicker brush and rake frequently. Use a comb to clean the slicker brush to optimize the capability of the tool. B. Avoid using these or any grooming tools harshly in an effort to speed up the process.

SECTION 4 COMBS: Quality dog combs are difficult to find. I use expensive combs that were made in England. When it comes to combs you get what you pay for. Quality combs are not cheap, but they last, and do the job very well. Check with professional groomers as they will direct you to quality companies. You may also attend grooming shows or grooming contests as grooming tools will be well represented at those events.

Purchase three [3] combs: A. Coarse comb B. Medium comb C. Fine comb - NOT A FLEA COMB for the German Shepherd .

NOTE: I have never been an advocate of -- or recommend the FERMINATOR, as it does more damage than good in the untrained hand.

COMBING CONTINUED  Beginning at the neck comb your dog with the coarse comb. Comb the entire neck, back, sides, hip, hock and tail. The amount of hair generally removed is incredible.

 Upon completion perform the same procedure with the medium comb. The medium comb well extract even more loose hair and under coat that the coarse comb missed.

 Finally use the fine tooth comb on appropriate areas for the purpose of extracting additional loose hair and under coat that was misses by the medium comb.

 Once you become accustomed to combing your K-9, you will see a noticeable difference in the coat, and in the overall look of the dog. Finally, this process will assist in reduced shedding.

SECTION 5 LIGHTLY MIST THE COAT WITH WATER: Using your hands rub and massage the [mist] well into the coat. When the fur is slightly damp lightly use the slicker brush, and brush the coat.

SECTION 6 BRUSHING: There are two brushes that I have used for many years as they do an excellent job. I usually purchase [2 or 3] of the same brushes when I make a new purchase just to make sure that I have replacement brushes when I need them.

1. From JEFFERS purchase a [DECKER #90 BODY BRUSH - ITEM # D5-B2 $5.89.] 2. From ACE HARDWARE purchase a brick/cement ACID BRUSH manufactured by: DQB INDUSTRIES. Cost $6.00? This brush is equivalent to the old scrub brush, as it does an excellent job on the coat. 3. Brush your dog appropriately without missing any areas. Use both brushes at the same time one in each hand. Brush the head and face carefully never getting close to the eyes. 4. After brushing comb your dog with the medium and fine combs as you did previously always including the tail. 5. Upon completing step 4 use the brush in one hand and the slicker in the other hand and gently brush and slicker the dog. 6. You are now finished grooming.

SECTION 7 NOTES:

SECTION 8 BATHING: Since most of us use a flea & tick preventative on the coat of the K-9 it is recommended to bathe your dog prior to application of the flea & tick product. K-9 bath frequency: Quarterly Since the beginning of time there have been hundreds of different shampoos or variations thereof that people have used and tested when giving a dog a bath. Some products work well for some dogs, and did not work well for others. Product allergy is of a concern as well as skin sensitivity. NOTE: If your K-9 falls into the category of allergy or skin sensitivity contact your vet immediate before giving your dog a bath.

There are three [3] products that I can recommend with confidence as they have worked well for all of my dogs. However, you may like one or two of the products better as all dogs are individuals. NOTE: The shampoos listed below are also very safe for human use. K-9 Shampoo

1. OATMEAL SHAMPOO/ Plain - Pet catalogues - internet - Wal-Mart - pet stores. 2. TEA TREE SHAMPOO - Pet catalogue - Sally's Beauty Supply - Wal-Mart - salons. 3. MAINE & TAIL SHAMPOO - Pet catalogue - Walgreens - Wal-Mart etc. 4. MAIN & TAIL CONDITIONER [rinse out /not leave in - IF NEEDED? Very good![purchase same as above]

NOTE: The Tea Tree shampoo sold at Sally's Beauty Supply is a generic product that is identical to Paul Mitchell at a reduced price. I've been informed that this product in particular has exceptional cleaning properties for both hair and scalp.

SECTION 9 BATHING PROCEDURE: **Always allow your dog to properly relieve himself prior to bathing. **Never bathe your dog in a draft or in a cold environment. ** Always use warm water. A. Wet your dog thoroughly using warm water only. B. Using a gallon plastic container fill with warm water and add approximately 1/4 of a cup of shampoo. C. Mix well. D. Using a medium size sponge place a small amount of the mixed shampoo and water from the buck onto the head, ears, and neck. DO NOT GET SOAP IN THE EYES. Massage into the coat appropriately and rinse keeping the head of the dog up as to avoid getting soap in the eyes. E. Sponge the chin & chest, massage into the coat and rinse. F. Sponge the body [ back, sides, and under body] massage into the coat and rinse. G. Sponge the legs, feet and tail, massage into the coat and rinse. H. SECOND SHAMPOOING: With the exception of the head and the face, sponge down the entire body of the dog using the shampoo, and massage into the coat. Let the shampoo stay on the dog for a period of three to five minutes. I. VERY IMPORTANT: Rinse your dog completely making sure that all shampoo is removed. Taking your time -- continue to rinse the coat until you are absolutely positive that the coat is free of shampoo. This includes the tail, entire under body, legs, hips, feet, back, sides, head, ears, chin and chest. J. If you elect to use conditioner place 1/4 of a cup of conditioner into a clean gallon plastic container, mix well with warm water, and apply with a clean sponge. Slowly pour the left over conditioner from the bucket onto the back of the K-9, and massage well into the coat. Let stand for three to five minutes. K. Rinse as noted above. Be careful to rinse your K-9 well as rinsing is the most important component of bathing. Take as much time as required for the rinsing process. L. If a K-9 COAT BLOWER is available blow the coat dry. NEVER BLOW AROUND THE EARS OR EYES! M. IF AVAILABLE: Under professional supervision place the K-9 into a cage with a warm blower attached to the outside of the cage door. Place the heat level on medium. If the blower is too hot you can severely injure the dog or kill him as the cage becomes an oven. Never keep the K-9 in the cage with the blower running if the dog is not checked periodically and supervised. It's always a good idea to place a bowl of water in the cage with the K-9. Some suggest having a separate fan set on low facing the cage as well. N. If a blower is not available towel dry your dog well keeping him out of drafts and the cold till the fur is completely dry. Use as many dry towels as necessary. Dry the ears as noted above.

SECTION 10 NAILS: Nails should be inspected and trimmed as needed. If your K-9 isn't working or training on cement or black top frequently -- more frequent trimming will be required. Of the nail trimming tools available I prefer the Dremel Tool. Previous to the Dremel Tool I used the Miller Forge nail trimmer. If you are not accustomed to trimming K-9 nails -- seek direction from your Vet or from a competent professional groomer. If you have not used the Dremel tool to trim and shape the nails proceed slowly as the Dremel Tool produces a good deal of heat, and removes nail material quickly. During the nail trimming process take your time as more of the nail can be removed next time you perform nail trimming procedure. If you work slowly your K-9 will become accustomed to the nail trimming process, and will cooperate with you each time you trim his nails. TEETH: We are all knowledgeable on the subject of dental hygiene. K-9 teeth become stained and develop plaque similar to that of the human. In some dogs the gums become infected. The K-9 can't brush or floss his own teeth as they depend upon us humans for their care. CLEANING & MAINTENANCE PROCEDURE: a) After the K-9 has completed his meal take the corner a damp wash cloth and rub the teeth gently in an effort to remove loose food. During this process clean the gums as well. b) Twice weekly brush the teeth and gums using a soft tooth brush and tooth paste made for dogs. Upon completion of the brushing use the corner of a damp wash cloth to remove any loose debris from the teeth and gums.

EYES: If you notice an abnormal discharge from the eyes or an eye problem consult your Vet immediately. Please consult with your Vet prior to placing any eye cleaner, lubricant or meds into the eye. Remember, this is your K-9, and he is your direct responsibility. Over the years I have successfully used Bosh & Lomb eye wash for my dogs. In dusty areas or in dry conditions this product has worked well without side effects. In certain cases your K-9 might require a antihistamine for an eye that runs. I have successfully used EQUATE - EYE ITCH RELIEF. This product is compared to ZADITOR, works for up to 12 hours, and stops the eye from running. USE THIS PRODUCT ONLY IF APPROVED BY YOUR VET.

However, your VET may have a solution/suggestion that may be better suited for your K-9. I was recently informed by my Vet that some eye conditions can be caused by a nasal condition. Keep in mind that when working on your own curing one problem may cause other issues. That said -- your Vet is your best friend.

SECTION 11 LABRADOR & MALINOIS COATS

I. Although there are exceptions; most of the Malinois and Labradors that I have seen don't have the thick coat of a German Shepherd. That said I would NOT recommend the use of a slicker brush or a German Shepherd rake. NOTE: I am not an advocate of the FERMINATOR. II. EXCEPTIONS: If you do own or work with a Malinois or Lab that has a HEAVY COAT, and you have been successful using the slicker brush -- how to proceed is your option. III. My suggestion is to utilize the combs, and all of the equipment/brushes that I have identified above for grooming your K-9. I have seen people grooming the Malinois & Lab with the slicker brush and the dogs jumped into the air as soon as the slicker brush hit their back. IV. It will take a while for you to become accustomed to using three different combs, the equipment and brushes that I recommend. However, the payback is more than worth the effort.

SECTION 12 A message to all Police K-9 Officers:

In closing, I am aware of the fact that many of you work long days, and some days are more difficult than others. I am also aware that some of you have part-time jobs, families, take classes, and have little time for yourself.

My objective in providing the above information was not to create more work; but to assist you in reducing the amount of time you now spend on K-9 maintenance.

If you are open minded, and open to change -- please give this grooming program three [3] months.

Groom your K-9 daily but not less than five [5] times each week. Once you receive the value and benefit from this process you will never change.

I respect each of you individually and collectively for who you are, and for the work you have chosen. May the LORD be with you and your families always.

Respectfully yours, Barry Rothschild Associate member: NAPWDA - ILPWDA

NOTE:
Training tips appearing in this portion of the web site are just that, "Training Tips". Do not take these as meaning that they are the only way to train K9 teams. There are probably as many training techniques, theories, beliefs and practices used by people as there are dogs. The only thing that is common among them all is the specific goal intended for that particular training session or tip. When problem solving tips appear, they to are just one of many. You must remember that no two dogs are the same and one method of doing something does not work on every single dog. Training techniques must be flexible from dog to dog. Please keep an open mind when reading these tips. Use what you can, modify what you want and discard what you wish. Please feel free to contact NAPWDA with your questions or comments. Take Care, Train Hard and STAY SAFE!